Vinohrady and Vršovice — La dolce vita

|→ 1 náměstí Míru / Peace Square (metro station “Náměstí Míru”) → 2 Church of St Ludmila

This square lies at Vinohrady’s heart, with the neo-Gothic Church of St. Ludmila at its centre. Other important buildings on the square include the Vinohrady Theatre (Divadlo na Vinohradech) and the National House Vinohrady (Národní dům na Vinohradech), site of conferences, concerts, and balls.

→ Americká St. → Koperníkova St. → 3 Havlíčkovy sady / Havlíček Gardens

Havlíček Gardens were inspired by the Italian Renaissance. Grottoes, fountains, waterfalls, and a lake create a romantic atmosphere, beautifully complemented by the charming wooden gazebo in the middle of the vineyard. The entire complex is dominated by a stately villa with a terrace that offers views of the surrounding areas.

→ 4 the Grébovka Villa → Rybalkova St. → Kozácká St. → Donská St. → Krymská St.

Even readers of the New York Times know that inconspicuous and somewhat grubby Krymská Street is the centre of Prague’s alternative culture and the hippest address in the city. You’ll find a number of places that blend café culture with the arts, plus a still-authentic — but not too wild — nightlife. We recommend coming back here in the early evening.

→ Moskevská St. → 5 Church of St Nicholas → 6 Heroldovy sady / Gardens → 7 Rangherka → Kodaňská St. → Norská St. → Ruská St. → Chorvatská St. → Na Šafránce St. → Slovenská St. → 8 Šaloun Atelier → Hradešínská St. → 9 Kotěra Villa

Two buildings worthy of note are the Art Nouveau atelier belonging to sculptor Ladislav Šaloun (creator of the massive Jan Hus sculpture in Old Town Square) and a villa by Jan Kotěra, a noted Czech modernist architect.

→ Chorvatská St. → Dykova St. → 10 Huss Congregational House Vinohrady

The striking building of the Huss Congregational House Vinohrady by Czech architect Pavel Janák entails three parts: a ceremonial hall, an apartment building, and a bell tower. The structure is considered an icon of Czech functionalist architecture.

→ U Vodárny St. → 11 Vinohrady Water Tower

This stately former water tower, once containing both pumps and water tanks, served its original purpose until 1962. Now it houses offices and apartments.

→ Vinohradská St. → 12 náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad / George of Poděbrady Square

Arriving on the square, your eyes will be immediately drawn to the unusual monumental architecture of the Church of the Most Sacred Heart by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who was also the creative force behind the modern modifications of Prague Castle. The church, whose form evokes Noah’s ark, is one of the most important 20th century religious buildings in Prague. The square is a frequent venue for a popular farmers’ market as well as other culinary and cultural events.

→ Laubova St. → Blodkova St. → Škroupovo náměstí / Square → Pospíšilova St. → 13 Mahlerovy sady / Gardens → 14 Žižkov TV Tower

Prague’s most controversial building and highest tower (216 m) still has its passionate supporters as well as those who would be happy to erase it from Prague’s skyline for good. Built between 1985 and 1992, it’s studded with bizarre giant babies by Czech artist David Černý. In addition to a viewing terrace (highly recommended!), you’ll also find a restaurant and a unique one-room hotel.

→ 15 Old Jewish Cemetery at Žižkov → Fibichova St. → Kubelíkova St. → 16 Palác Akropolis

Palác Akropolis, Žižkov’s cultural hub with its uniquely conceived interiors including a restaurant, is popular among not only established artists, but also those just starting out — be it music, theatre, or visual art.

→ Vozová St. → 17 Riegrovy sady / Rieger Gardens

This park, over 100 years old, offers intimate nooks, open meadows, and unusual views of Prague’s skyline. For a stunning vista of the Old Town and Prague Castle, head to the top of the meadow at the western edge of the park. In the summer it’s an ideal spot for a picnic.

→ Anny Letenské St. → Ibsenova St. → 1 náměstí Míru / Peace Square →|